.... BEAUTY IS DIVERSE.

Despite it being Black History Month and all the attention on the ny fashion week runways, little has changed. After crunching the numbers on 148 shows, it is reported that of 4,621 looks, only 985 were worn by models of color. That means that of all the models who walked this past week, 78.69% of them were white. While that number is slightly smaller than last season, it still hovers around 80 percent, which has been roughly the percentage of looks worn by white models for the past six seasons.

another low-blow was the March 2014 issue of Details Magazine featuring the top male models and no one of color was included. 

( no Tyson Beckford, Rob Evans, David Agbodji,Armando Cabral, or Corey Baptiste....)

 When i was  growing up in the 80's and 90's ELLE Magazine was my first choice when i could get  the money up to buy a fashion magazine. It was one of the few magazines that i could find that displayed a broad diverse beauty. they thought of its readers on a global scale.

What i don't understand is that its 2014 and we live in a global accessible world  and we are still fighting for diverse representation in the fashion world. Why is it so hard to see a broader representation of beauty? Back in the 80's and 90's ELLE Magazine did an excellent job of showcasing women of color instead of treating European standards of beauty like its the template of beauty. Back then diversity seemed effortless. Now it seems so deliberate and forced. 

I would love to see the industry showcase broader ideas of beauty in a seamless way that feels genuine.... WHY IS DIVERSITY SO HARD?

One of the must see fashion shows during New York fashion week back in 1995 was Todd Oldham. He was notorious for featuring a variety of the best models and they were a diverse mix that didn't seem forced. They looked like  the  graduating class of the most beautiful women in the world.

also check out fashion designer Azzedine Alaia who has always showcased diverse beauty.......

"AZZEDINE ALAIA" BY ELLEN VON UNWERTH from Diane Pernet's ASVOFF on Vimeo.

WET DREAMS feat. ANDRE DOUGLAS @ wilhelmina models nyc

model: ANDRE DOUGLAS (wilhelmina models nyc)

ph. Tarrice Love

styling: Tarrice Love

 

andre douglas @ wilhelmina models nyc from tarrice love on Vimeo.

It is always great to be apart of a model's success (especially a African American model). Andre Douglas started as a college basketball player in Laurenceville, Georgia who maxed out his credit cards to come to New York and shoot with me. He crashed on my couch in the Bronx with a broken foot and immediately signed with a top agency. His classic All-American looks landed major campaigns with Abercrombie and Finch, Levis, D-Squared and Tommy Hilfiger. He has stomped the runways with major American and European designers all over the world.

Andre hit me up to be apart of a project i'm working and create images that would help transition him into a "grown man" image. this wet concept is an easy go to when the temperatures are reaching the 100 degree marks. Pouring water on someone's head while maintaining a straight face isn't as easy as you'd think it would be but Andre handled the situation like a master pro. It was an awesome experience working with Andre and we have more hot images to show y'all soon.

5 THINGS BLACK MODELS SHOULD KNOW

before you read this be advised that this is my opinion based on my own personal experiences.

1. NEVER GO TO OPEN CALLS.
an open call is a specific time that the agency sets aside (generally once a week) to see new talent, who are permitted to just walk in without an appointment or prior comp card submission. This is most common for the fashion agencies in larger markets like New York and Los Angeles. If you are a black model, don't waste your time.

Getting clients to book black models is triple the effort and pays a lot less than their white counterparts. No one is looking to work hard for less so they are not looking for you. no matter how amazing you are, you look like more work for less pay. Who do you think wants to work hard for less....no one so don't waste your time.

They are  looking for easy money....if you are not white, you are not easy money.

Often time you never get to see real bookers....you are seen by interns. Its  their job to filter out the riff-raff.

I don't know of any black models who got signed to an agency by going to open calls. It is better to just email your pics. They check every email and its in front of them a lot longer than you would be  at an open call.  If they like what they see they will set up an appointment to see you in person that is not on open call day.

At the end of the day its all business. Agencies are trying to make money...white models are easier money, black models are hard work. No one wants to work hard for less.

2. LOOSEN UP. (this is for the fellas)

Black models (esp. males) are alot more stiff and controlling than their white counterparts. The white guys I have  photographed tend to be more open and  less afraid to to look silly. The black guys  tend to be more stiff and  "posey" and more focused on looking cool. Its the  reason why fashion people hate pageant girls.... there main focus is to be their idea of what pretty is and that  usually gets in the way of  creating a great image.

3. ALWAYS BE ON TIME....NEVER BE LATE.

They expect you to be late so don't live up to any negative expectation.....especially the one where black people never show up to anything on time. Being late is costing someone a lot of money, don't let your career be the price.....

4. YOU ARE THE  SPOKESPERSON FOR YOUR ENTIRE RACE.

You are representing ALL black people whether you want to or not. That means you  must be onpoint at all times. That one or two black faces in campaigns, editorials, and on runways  is the industry's way of representing Black people in their branding.  If you drop the ball by being late, having a bad attitude, not taking care of yourself, or doing anything that can be interpreted as negative, your actions will affect the client's decision to book another black model. You will never hear a client say "The last time we booked a blonde girl she was late with a difficult attitude and we just dont want to deal with that this time."

5. YOU DON'T NEED STRONG IMAGES TO GET SIGNED, YOU NEED THEM TO BOOK JOBS.

If you are trying to get signed, agencies are looking for  fresh and new faces to send to clients. you need pics that make you look fresh and new. Its kind of hard to seem "new" if you over saturate yourself  by testing with every GWC (goon with camera) who is free. The biggest mistake in this industry is to have bad pictures floating around that create a negative image  for you. If you are trying to sign with an agency, clean images with you  wearing basic clothing in natural light work best for that. These images show  agents that you are photogenic and allow them to visualize the type of clients they should send you too. After getting signed, the agents will then send you to select photographers  to create appropriate images to attract clients to help you land jobs.

If a booker says you need "stronger" images that is their nice way of saying NO! They don't see immediate money making potential with you.

The only way I would advise models to step outside of the agency to shoot with photographers not referred by their booker is when the collection of  images  in their portfolio generate no response by the client or  if your portfolio looks identical to all the other guys at the agency. Its kind of difficult to stand out in front of the client if your book looks the same as the previous models they meet with. Clients  see hundreds of models to select  the few they need for the job. You need images that set you apart from the rest and  inspire the client. Expect to pay for  top quality work because its an investment in your career.

Most models don't have an informed eye to know good imagery. When selecting a photographer to work with look at the portfolios of the models who previously booked the jobs and try to work with the same people they worked with. The client was obviously inspired by the images and maybe the formula might work for you too.

HER MAJESTY.....re-introducing ISAMAR GONZALEZ

Isamar Gonzalez (photography: Tarrice Love)

styling: McGuyver

headdress by Me/ McGuyver

all accessories designed by Isamar Designs

The first time I saw Isamar Gonzalez was 12 years ago in  Heavy d's Nuttin' But Luv music video and again in Sweet Honey by Born Jamericans. It was  my first time seeing "real" models in videos and I thought she was goooorgeous. She was the black girl with "the big hair." I never thought in a million years I would have had the opportunity to meet and work with her.

music video - Sweet Honey by Born Jamericans/ Delicious Vinyl

photographed by Thierry LeGoues

D'Angelo - Cruisin'

Uploaded by EMI_Music. - Watch more music videos, in HD!

She sought me out thru the networking site Facebook to assist me on a few of my photoshoots. I was so nervous that i wouldn't respond. One day I came home from work and got on Facebook and she hit me on the chat asking me when was I gonna call her...... I honestly didn't know how to pronounce her name and I didn't want to butcher it plus I was kinda afraid to meet someone I actually use to draw when I was in college. She told me to "call now!" and try....so I did. We instantly hit it off and set up a session.

Isamar Gonzalez (photography: Tarrice Love)

styling: McGuyver

dress made out a t-shirt by Me/ McGuyver

all accessories designed by  Isamar Designs

I was a little nervous and intimidated to shoot her in my cramped little space. Supermodel Isamar has worked with some of the most amazing photographers and fashion icons in the world. I was hoping that experience of working with me would equal her expectations. She made me comfortable and feel just as relevant and special as those photographers i grew up admiring. Being in NYC and not having access to space, clothes and connections has heightened my insecurity and has made me lose confidence in my work and abilites, but working with Isamar made me feel so inspiring and proud. I love the images we created and look forward to working with her on more projects.

Isamar Gonzalez (photography: Tarrice Love)

styling: McGuyver

all accessories designed by  Isamar Designs

She looks as amazing as she did when she first started modeling at 17 and was wonderful to work with and I think I captured her energy and spirit perfectly......

film: RENEE THOMPSON in THE COLOR OF BEAUTY by Director Elizabeth St. Philip

Yesterday I stumbled upon this website called WORK FOR ALL: Films Against Racism In The Workplace ( http://workforall.nfb.ca )
The Colour of Beauty is a short documentary about racial discrimination in the fashion industry. Director Elizabeth St. Philip follows a young and fiercely talented Black model, Renee Thompson, as she navigates the fashion world as a visible minority.



After watching this film yesterday, I began thinking about my place in this industry as a photographer.... and then as a BLACK photographer. I am often frustrated by how slanted this industry is when it comes opportunities for models of color. I do appreciate agencies, like Major Model Mgmt. who support my vision as an artist in this industry.

I try to provide images that parallel the images successful models (who are usually white) have in their portfolios for the models of color I work with, but those images never make it to their book because the idea of treating all models equally is not ideal - models of color end up with a boring, forgettable portfolio presentation and remain in a box with limited opportunities and the white models an unfair advantage.

I think it also sucks that many photographers, stylist, fashion designers of color go all out of their way to mask their race  by working with mostly white models. Some go to the extremes of changing their name and even lying about their background so industry people will assume they are white. I am very proud of who I am and the fact that I am a black man from the south making moves in this industry. I resist the pressures to hide my race  because I want to use my influence to represent my people in this business. I am proud that my work helps this industry to see models of color the same way their white counterparts are viewed. It allows them to be on a more equal playing ground - giving the models of color a fair chance.

I grew up during the height of the supermodel craze.... with models of color like Tyra Banks, Naomi Campbell, Tyson Beckford, Jason Olive, Veronica Webb, Beverly Peele, Roshumba, Sekou Carradine,Will LeMay, Daisy Fuentez and so many more..... seeing them made me hopeful. I wanted to see more colored faces and I really believed I could contribute to this industry.

After last years, Vogue Italia "Black" issue, I attempted to put together a portrait series that celebrated the black male models in the industry called IM2: The Invisible Men Project - I never expected to receive resistance from the models and their agents - especially since I had worked with so many of them in the beginning stages of their careers. I even had an agent tell me directly that had i been a big named white photographer, he would allow his working models to be apart of the project. The models themselves were either too afraid to do it on their own or just weren't interested because they are booking some jobs. I can't do it by myself so i'm scrapping  the project....for now.

I think this film is a great way to spark real dialogue that might help open the eyes of designers, editors, and agents in this industry....
This film asks the questions: Why isn’t the multi-cultural society that we live in reflected in our magazines, on billboards and on the runways of fashion shows? And who are the parties involved in this industry’s lack of diversity? Does the answer lie somewhere in the back rooms of fashion magazines or in the offices of casting directors of fashion shows? Is it something that is discussed at advertising agencies, or between designers and modeling agencies? Whatever the answer, the fact is that models of color work less, and their chances of success are very low.

Everytime I do a post about this issue I feel people going "oh lawrd, not this again" but I will continue to use my internet presence to discuss this issues until other people within the industry step up and take a chance and catch up with the diverse world we are living in now.

And what do you think? Work For All in partnership with Schema Magazine is launching a quest for your stories about how racism affects the world of fashion. And, they are launching a live event with our other partner The Museum of Vancouver. Find out more about this contest and event at Schema Magazine.

005: WHITE GIRL CLEAN feat. Shylow @ identities models nyc

i been working with shylow every since she first arrived to nyc from the bahamas. one of the things i realized that she didn't have in her port were those clean, classic, Gap-like images that white girls always have in their portfolios. Black girls are usually photographed images where they are over glamorous with crazy makeup - anything that's far removed from the classic girl-next-door look. check it out ...i think i hit it on the mark :)

I started "white girl clean" partly because i didn't have a team ( hair/ makeup/ stylist) for the girls i was working with. I also noticed that black girls didn't have those clean, classic pics wear jeans and t-shirts in their portfolios like white models. here are other examples of "white girl clean"

starting from the top - Krystle@ wilihemina nyc, Nazri @ la models, Channing a, loren@ red nyc, and India